Marni Inspired by David Salle Spring 2018
If you are familiar with American artist David Salle’s work a few pieces from Marni’s Spring 2018 show may have stood out to you. Three looks incorporated Salle paintings that fit right into the quirky feel of the collection.
A look from Marni’s Spring 2018 show (L) Rob Him of Pleasure, 1979 By David Salle (R)
Down to unfinished hems that were used, looks at the show were definitely unconventional.
Two looks from Marni’s Spring 2018 show
“It’s almost like a bizarre cocktail of objects that have rained down on her. She’s almost like an archaeologist, who’s scavenging into a trunk full of objects, dreams, stories, life, movement movies,” Risso, the creative director of Marni, said backstage at the show. He was talking about the girl he envisioned while creating the collection.
Risso also said the collection was a treasure hunt. It touched on different eras and all started with a scribble he drew of a skater girl while at lunch with his boyfriend. The sketch had a 20s vibe and Risso called it sculptured. It had unrealistic proportions, which translated into the collection as oversized looks.
A look from Marni’s Spring 2018 show
It wasn’t just about the one scribble though, while designing the collection he imagined “a multitude of women, surfing through a multitude of worlds.” (This quote was taken from the show notes). The first sketch soon turned into other characters named Nicole, Kiki, Line and Querelle. They became his muses.
The end result was pieces that Risso called “New Dada” (Neo-Dada). With the collection’s playful take on culture, I certainly see where he was coming from. Salle’s art played into this fun feel.
A look from Marni’s Spring 2018 show (L) The Fourth Since I Came Up, 1980 By David Salle (R)
The pieces of his art that were mixed into the collection were from his early work. They were titled Rob Him of Pleasure, 1979 and The Fourth Since I Came Up, 1980. Among other things these paintings have female figures in them. Some figures are nude and coincide with pieces of Salle’s art, which stem from his time working at a publishing house. The house specialized in racy content and while working there he collected images that he ended up using for some of his art. The provocative nature of this work got him backlash.
However, this did not stop Salle from being a success and having the creative director of a renowned brand cold call him. Risso got in touch with the Neo-Expressionist artist in order to receive permission to use his art.
A look from Marni’s Spring 2018 show (L) The Fourth Since I Came Up, 1980 By David Salle and Rob Him of Pleasure, 1979 By David Salle (R)
Salle’s work could be described as assemblages. The same way you could describe the collection as having a collage feel. Salle is known for this style and maybe he was more of an inspiration for the collection than we’re giving him credit for.
Pastiche could also be used to describe Salle’s art, something that imitates previous work. Don’t take this the wrong way though, his diverse creations are still very original. Influenced by filmmakers, Salle even made a commercial film with Martin Scorsese once. Adding film to the list of things he has done creatively. Designing sets and costumes, photography, and writing, are all other things on that list.
Like Salle, Marni produces a variety of things. You may not think of the brand as where you could buy a cotton t-shirt but they do sell them. It’s safe to say they are not the cheapest option. But I don’t think Hanes is planning on printing parts of Salle paintings on their shirts any time soon.
A Marni t-shirt (L) Rob Him of Pleasure, 1979 By David Salle (R)
The same two paintings that were incorporated into the collection, shown for Spring 2018, were used on the t-shirts. The tees were not seen on the runway but they were an extra bit of Salle that we definitely appreciated.
A Marni t-shirt (L) The Fourth Since I Came Up, 1980 By David Salle (R)
I guess a downfall of the collection could be not enough Salle. But there is something to be said about leaving people wanting more. Well-done Marni!